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2010-09-20

AR 1108

Active Region 1108

Some basic processing with some frames captured this morning.

Seeing: III

Equipment: LOMO Astele 133.5 @ f/10, DMK21AF04, Baader white light solar film, IDAS LPS-V4, Kenko R1 Pro, Takahashi EM-200 T2Jr

Processing: Astro IIDC (capture), Keith's image stacker (align, stack), PS CS5 (post-processing), no wavelet processing

2010-09-02

Baader MaxBright T-2 binoviewers

Initial Impressions & Thoughts


This post was initially a response on a singastro forum, but was so long, I thought I may as well blog it.

From Teleskop Service in Germany, I bought:

  • The Baader Maxbright binoviewer kit with 1.25x glass path corrector and 1.25" nosepiece.

  • Zeiss Jena 90 degree prism T-2


This is the first time I've used Teleskop Service. Good prices, easy to use site, same day shipping and everything was packaged well. Very happy with their service.

From Starbase in Tokyo.

  • 2x 18mm Takahashi orthos (24.5mm)

  • 1x 12.5mm Tani ortho (24.5mm). I already have another 12.5mm


Great service as per usual.

On opening the binoviewer and parts


The binoviewer is nicely made, with coatings well applied. The tension is just right, and there is a fair amount of focus travel for each eyepiece. The helical focussers for the eyepieces are smooth. On the prism, however, I was surprised to see a tiny chip on one surface. I doubt this will have much, if any effect, but still, I'd expect it to fail QC, especially with the Zeiss prism being the more expensive option. There is a plastic ring on the male threaded side of the prism. This ring is there to provide some gradual pressure when you tighten the thread, and worked well with some T-thread accessories I tried. However, to fully screw the prism to the binoviewer, I had to remove this ring. Without the ring the binoviewer jams and "gives" suddenly. This is a bit disappointing.

Also, there is the usual Baader problem of 'sticky' threads. Every Baader filter I've ever had has had the threads very slightly off. Not sure why this is, but again the prism and binoviewer have this problem.

The 31.7->T adapter is well made and has a 34mm thread internally to attach the glass path corrector. This works well.

First light


Of course it was cloudy when I got all the parts delivered and I couldn't try them out on the sky. I just looked at some far-off buildings and lights. So, these are fairly useless initial impressions.

I tried the binoviewer and prism on my FSQ-85ED, which has a lot of back-focus (>200mm) to support long imaging trains. The adapters for visual use take up some of this, quite a bit as it turns out.
There are basically two configurations:

  1. Binoviewer - corrector

  2. Binoviewer - prism - corrector


With 1, I could get focus with the 18mm orthos. But with a Televue maxbright 1.25" diagonal inline I couldn't get focus.

I then tried configuration 2, and couldn't get focus. I changed the Tak 2"->1.25" adapter set (which takes up about 30-40mm or so) to the low profile adapter, and was able to get focus. There was quite a lot more back focus available when using 31.7mm eyepieces, so I could probably just use the normal adapter. This setup is close to the stated requirements.

  1. The quality of the machining shows - I had no problem fusing the image and getting good focus for each eye

  2. Very nice, high contrast, sharp images

  3. Some lateral colour

  4. Some softness at the edge of the field

  5. Internal reflections


By far the worst and most intrusive was 5: internal reflections. This was very, very bad. Far worse than any I've seen in cheap binoculars. In daytime viewing, this will probably lead to reduced contrast. It's probably not much of an issue when viewing star fields, but these reflections will probably cause problems viewing the Moon. These were so obvious and so bad, I'm curious if there's something weird about my setup. I can't think what it would be - they were visible with or without the prism.

Point 4 is worrying, but I need to try this setup under the stars to see what's going on. There's certainly no field curvature on the Q, but it's possible the light cone is still a bit too steep for the orthos, or even the prisms.

Some things to heed:

  1. The Tak 31.7->24.5 adapters are nice, but take up even more back focus. DOH. So, don't do what I did. Use 31.7mm eyepieces.

  2. The Baader T-2 prism allows you to connect the binoviewer with the minimum increase in light path. I'd recommend this, or another T-thread diagonal.

  3. You will almost certainly need one of the glass path converters. Unless you're using something like a Borg, Tak Sky-90/Q or other scope with a lot of back focus, you will need a corrector with magnification higher than 1.25x.

  4. The entire setup is quite heavy and greatly increases the moment on the rear of your scope (assuming a refractor or compound).

  5. Due to the weight, you're not going to be able to use heavy eyepieces. If you want to do this, it would make sense to do so on a larger scope and get the more expensive Mark-V binoviewer.

  6. I've not tried the setup with my Mak or Mewlon yet, but I'm worried about the ergonomics. It looks like the scope might get in the way. There is a 45 degree Amici prism that may be more suitable.

  7. Eye placement seems to be more critical than with a single eyepiece.

  8. SCT owners are going to focus way, way off from where the system is optimised. Expect even worse off-axis performance than usual, and probably some SA on axis.

  9. The system diagram I got was for the older binoviewer system which was not T-2. There are some configurations not possible with the T-2 system, and others that are no longer necessary. This might lead to confusion.

2010-08-08

Borg 71FL is pretty damn good

Here is a post with a photo that shows some Fresnel rings. I need to do a proper Roddier test, but it's looking pretty good.

2010-07-19

Review of the Nikon 180/2.8 ED Ai-S

I think this is one of the best value lenses out there for widefield astrophotography. Jerry Lodriguss has put up a review of this lens on his blog, "Catching the Light". Check out his site for his very clear articles and books on beginning astrophotography.

QHY8 reprise

In a previous post, I wrote about the trouble I had with my QHY8.

So, I spent a bit of time fiddling with the QHY8 getting the CCD square to the front plate. I adjusted the rear screws and was able to get the CCD square according to my measurements. But no matter how I changed the tension, I couldn't see any difference in sample images - there was still frame-wide "coma" aligned with the CCD.

At first, I was making small adjustments to the height of the corners of the CCD - 0.2mm max. I decided to make gross movements instead, and didn't see any change in the test images. Aha! Something else is going on. It turned out to be "tearing" in the image introduced by software. The QHY8 is supported with a custom driver under Nebulosity on the Mac. Unfortunately, these seem to have some problems. After trying Nebulosity under Windows with the official QHY drivers, I finally got a very nice test image with a flat field. Nothing is perfect though, I have to reinstall the drivers frequently.

When playing around with the CCD alignment, I noticed that the cold finger the CCD is on is levered on one side. This is the side with one spacer on top of a component. I took out the screw I previously put on the right hand side, straightened the spacer and put it on the right hand side. When I reassembled the CCD, the CCD was pretty much perfectly aligned!

If the clouds of the past two months clear, hopefully I will get some imaging done with the QHY8.

Borg 77EDII

Note

I originally wrote this post back in November 2009, and it has languished as a draft. Since then, I've added the 135mm tube (7135) that allows use of the f/4 ED reducer and the new 0.78DGT triplet reducer (7878).

My new Borg 77EDII (available from Hutech outside of Japan) arrived today from Starbase.

Borg unboxing

The 77EDII package (6000 and 2178) comes with a drawtube, helical focusser, two M57 extension tubes (7509, 7508) that also allow use of 2" accessories, and a T-ring adapter (7522). The tube has a clever flat mount area that can be used to attach the scope to a tripod, or to attach a finder mount or other accessories.

Borg bits

Both the tube and the lens assembly come with caps for use when the scope is broken down for transport. Nice. I would've liked these for my 125SD - there is not even the option to buy them separately. The lens cell doesn't appear to be adjustable, but looks like it will accept 77mm filters (note it doesn't, you can use 82mm filters if you take the nameplate off, see here). The lens hood is retractable, but doesn't slide into place with a satisfying click, as the Pentax 75SDHF does, or have a screw to hold it in place, like the Tak Sky-90 and FSQ-85ED. However, the hood is small and light, so I don't think it being held in place by friction will be a problem.

Objective

In addition I bought the 80mm rings (7080), the plastic clamshell (5503) and a Vixen-style finder mount (7755n). I also added one accessory that currently seems to be available only in Japan, the Yuetsu-27g base ring from Scopelife. This is the well-machined (カワセミ or "Kingfisher") blue ring in the photos. This provides a tighter fit around the extensible draw tube and reduces sag. I became aware of this accessory through the Borg "topics" blog (Japanese). Note the blog is now at http://www.tomytec.co.jp/borg/world/blog/.



The flexibility and value for money of Borg scopes and accessories seems to increase the more you buy. I can use the M57 FeatherTouch focusser and MDX "helicoid" with ED F4DG reducer for my 125SD on the 77EDII with no problem. I think I can also use the 0.85x DG (7885) and 0.66x DGT (7866)  reducers for the mini-Borg series that I have for use with my 60ED. Both of these reducers are usable up to 500mm focal length, only cover an APS-C sized sensor, but have the advantage of being tiny.

Ready to go, anywhere

Compare this to my Taks. I have a 35mm reducer, (separate) 35mm flattener and 1.6x extender specific to the TOA-130/150, the 0.73 reducer ED and 1.5 extender ED for the FSQ-ED and Sky-90 reducer and Extender-Q for the Sky-90 and FSQ. To be fair, the extenders can all be used with other scopes - I think. And with some ingenuity some of the reducers can be used on other scopes, but not easily.

With the F4DG reducer, the focal length of the 77EDII is around 330mm at f/4.3. On a 35mm full frame this is just over 6 by 4 degrees, with a 7.5 degree diagonal. This should provide nice wide-field images. For H-alpha, the Olympus 250/2 and 250/2.8 have the advantage of speed, though at the cost of weight. The Pentax 645 300/4 provides a comparable FOV at a comparable weight, but the Borg's flexibility would have it win for a trip. Anyway, it will be fun to try them out and compare.

I missed out on the Borg 0.85x DGL reducer/ (7887) for 35mm full-frame, so will wait and pick up the 0.78x triplet reducer when it becomes available. I recently managed to find the fairly rare 35mm 1.04x flattener (7784) on Yahoo Auction in Japan, which I will pick up over the New Year holiday. This set of reducers/flatteners will give 330, 395 and 530mm focal lengths on a full 35mm frame. Surely in terms of flexibility, this has to be one of the best small portable photo-visual refractors available?

The 77EDII is pretty large compared to the 60ED when assembled.